Tasting a Place: What is Terroir?

Terroir is a term often used when discussing wine, but what is it exactly? And does it actually make a difference to what you can taste in your glass? Here, we explore the concept of terroir, and its importance to the wines of the Great Southern.

What is ‘terroir’ anyway?

Let’s start with the word itself. Terroir is from the French word terre, meaning lands, with no exact equivalent in the English language. Rather than having one specific meaning, terroir is a concept which embodies many considerations. To borrow a quote referenced by wine writer James Halliday, ‘terroir’ was explained by former proprietor of famed French winery Château Cos d'Estournel, Bruno Prats, as:

“... All the natural conditions which influence the biology of the vinestock and thus the composition of the grape itself. The terroir is the coming together of the climate, the soil, and the landscape. It is the combination of an infinite number of factors: temperatures by night and by day, rainfall distribution, hours of sunlight, slope and drainage, to name but a few. All these factors react with each other to form, in each part of the vineyard, what French wine growers call a terroir.”

For centuries, French winemakers have embraced the notion of terroir as a way of describing the distinctions of a place that influence the wines crafted from that region; keenly observing the character of wines from different areas, vineyards, and even more specifically from different sections within the same vineyard. While terroir was popularised by French wine producers, they were certainly not the first to recognise that different growing regions produced distinctive wines. Historically, the world’s earliest winemakers, including the Ancient Greeks and Benedictine monks, stamped their amphorae with the seal of the region where the wine had been grown, with some areas building a reputation as a region of renown. 

In fact, some of the boundaries that still exist today as Burgundy’s famed Grand Cru vineyards were first established centuries ago by members of the Benedictine and Cistercian monks. France’s current appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) system — which posits that wines from a defined geographical area display unique qualities only attributable to that site — is informed by the various terroirs that exist throughout the country, and forms the model for similar regulation across the world.

The terroir of the Great Southern

While the concept of terroir is still debated within the wine industry, the Great Southern is a perfect example of the effect of unique microclimates, terrain, soil profiles and other factors present in distinct areas within the region — so much so, that it is recognised as being comprised of five separate subregions, each known for unique wine styles and hero varieties.

“Each subregion has its own terroir,” explains Singlefile co-founder, Patrick Corbett. “The Great Southern region encompasses a very large area of land, including coastal and inland regions, mountain ranges and valleys, and dense forested areas. Throughout our region, the climate, soil, terrain and micro-organisms are incredibly diverse.”

Each of the five Great Southern subregions — Frankland River, Denmark, Porongurup, Albany and Mount Barker — produce distinctive styles with subregional flavour.

• Albany: With a maritime climate influenced by proximity to the Southern Ocean, Albany presents ideal conditions for exceptional sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, and pinot noir. 
• Denmark: Slightly cooler and wetter, Denmark’s steep hills and valleys create unique microclimates perfect for complex chardonnay, riesling, and pinot noir.
• Mount Barker: The coolest subregion, Mount Barker’s extended ripening period and cool nighttime conditions help fruit achieve ripeness while retaining natural acidity, ideal for age-worthy riesling, sauvignon blanc, pinot noir, and aromatic Mediterranean varietals.
• Frankland River: A warmer Mediterranean climate with long stretches of sunlight coupled with cooler nights through the growing season creates fruit ripeness balanced by elegant acidity. Frankland River offers distinguished shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, grenache, and mataro.
• Porongurup: Known for its ancient granite peaks and moderate Mediterranean climate, the Porongurup subregion has a unique thermal zone which reduces frost risk, promoting ideal ripening conditions for cool-climate varieties like riesling, chardonnay, and pinot noir.

Does it actually make a difference?

So, how important is ‘terroir’, or the context of the environmental factors in the final wine? Patrick believes that it must be the key consideration. “We wanted to produce world-class wines that we were proud of, and since our first vintage in 2008 we have sought to understand and harness the subtle nuances of the vineyards within the Great Southern,” he said. “We spent a great deal of time putting together the puzzle of site and variety pairings, discovering where each variety best flourished and expressed the greatest sense of place. Great wine can only come from great beginnings — without high-quality grapes, we cannot produce high-quality wines.”

While it is near impossible to precisely define terroir and its myriad facets, the impact the concept has on Great Southern winemaking, and winemaking all over the world, cannot be overstated. When you’re next in Denmark, Singlefile’s own corner of the Great Southern, drop into our Cellar Door and allow our team to talk you through the nuances of our region, as you journey sip by sip.